The landscape has completely changed today we are on the Atherton Tablelands only 70km south west of Cairns and 700m above sea level. Everything is vibrant green and there are dramatic mountains. The weather has changed too, there a dark clouds and it’s threatening rain. This will be our first rain for 5 weeks, it will be good to wash all the red dust of the van. You could easily think you were in Wales here.
The whole area is riddled with volcanic features, volcanic cones, waterfalls and crater lakes. They are all extinct, last active 8 million years ago. Absolutely loved it here so beautiful.
Brief stop here on the way through to the Tablelands, it looks like a normal little creek but there are bubbling pools. Some of the pools get to 78 degrees which I found out when I put my foot in. You just walk around until you find your perfect temperature and take a dip. It’s too shallow to swim at the moment but lovely to relax in the hot springs.
This is a beautiful 18m waterfall and swimming hole. It was packed but it was a Sunday and I think a lot of people go there at the weekend. Not a great place to take your caravan very narrow lanes and small parking area, we had to go into the bus area to turn around. Very impressive waterfall.
These falls are on the North Johnstone river and they cascade down into a man made swimming pool with grassed areas where you can picnic and there are two rainforest walks. They are 4m high and 30m wide. We are staying in the Malanda Falls caravan park so there is a gate and steps straight down to the falls. This area is known for platypus and tree kangaroos. I did both walks and only saw pademelons. The Lumholtz’s tree kangaroo stays mostly up in the trees but there are road signs everywhere warning of tree kangaroos crossing the roads. Been going out in the mornings and at dusk to try and see the platypus but no luck so far. Did see the Curtain Fig tree though which is absolutely massive.
There are stinging trees here, locally known as Jangali or Gympi Gympi (Dendrocnide moroides) and they have signs up telling you to wear enclosed shoes and not to go off the paths. All parts of the tree can sting, they have large hairy, heart shaped horizontal leaves. The immediate sting is severe and can cause swelling of the lymph glands, but residual discomfort can last several months. The small seedlings can sting ankles and legs which is why I wore jeans and boots. They call it a tree but it looks more like a medium sized shrub really. When I read a sign ‘Do not touch” I can’t help being tempted to touch. When they tell you its severe you really want to know how severe. I did resist though because I did not want to suffer for months just because I was curious.
Absolutely pouring with rain here most days with a few patches of sun now and again. I went on the hunt again to try and see tree kangaroos and platypus in the pouring rain, that is what you call dedication. Drove to Yungaburra a lovely little town full of interesting little shops not as hippyfied as Malanda. Went along a path along the Peterson Creek and saw my first platypus as soon as I got there. I could not believe it. I then walked along the forest path and saw another one who was swimming back and fore in front of me for at least 5 mins. So happy. Spent the next hour looking for tree kangaroos but no luck there.
One of the crater lakes, this was my favourite. The water was so clear and there is a platform you can swim off or steps down into the water. Very inviting until you read the sign about the crocodile. It’s a freshwater crocodile so nobody seems to be bothered. When I was there I met this American guy from Oregon who had only been in Australia for 3 weeks and he desperately wanted to go for a swim. He was very concerned about the crocodile and asked me if I could stay with him whilst he went for a dip. I asked him what did he expect me to do if the crocodile got him because I was not jumping in to try and save him. He said my phone is in my ‘fanny bag’, so phone my mum and tell her. Poor guy. He did eventually get in.
My question is how did the crocodile get there? They are not native to Lake Eacham so must have been put into the lake by someone who caught a baby crocodile elsewhere. He must be very lonely, poor crocodile.
This lake is 66m deep and is quite blue apparently due to its volcanic origin and underground sources.
Another one of the crater lakes, it’s a freshwater lake which is 65m deep. There is a tea house where you can have locally grown tea or coffee served with scones. You really could be in the UK or in New Zealand. You can take a boat cruise around the lake or walk the circuit, the shore line is 4.7kms long.
There is a short rainforest walk here and the highlight are the twin kauris, they are bull kauri pine trees which tower 45m above you. I was impressed but I like trees.
No crocodile in this one.